Alguien que nos de nociones basicas de como hacer fotos a relojes

[Reychuky]

Hola a todos

Esta claro que en esta comunidad, existe un bueno numero de "Torpes", haciendo fotos de relojes, aunque sea para poder ponerlas en el foro de CV.

Alguien con experiencia, podria explicar como hacer fotografias buenas de un reloj con un equipo basicos.

Creo que todos ganariamos muchos

Un Saludo

 

[zdec]

Mirate esta serie de reportajes de nuestro foro vecino enlace roto o perdido

Espero que te sirvan de ayuda.

Saludos

 

[Paulo]

Yo he escrito unas ideas sencillas en ingles respecto a tirar fotos de relojes.
Aqui te las pongo.

This is what I do with my Canon PowerShot A75 (3.2 MP camera) set on a tripod.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Set to macro mode and no flash.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Position the piece in order to avoid reflections.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Mode selection: aperture priority.<o😛></o😛>
Set it to the minimum aperture possible (maximum F value, F8.0 in my camera case). This way you’ll get the maximum depth of field (wider focused area). That’s a trade-off, because the narrower the aperture the lesser the light.<o😛></o😛>
If the light is weak the time may appear in red, in that case I increase the aperture (decrease F value) until I get the time setting within limits.
The depth of field can also be used to focus or not the background.
<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Exposure<o😛></o😛>
If the LCD test looks darker I increase exposure (still trying to adjust that) or decrease it if looks too bright.<o😛></o😛>
These settings can always be improved with a photo editing software like PhotoShop or Paint.NET (layers/adjustments/levels).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Type of light<o😛></o😛>
Select the type of light that gives better colour restitution.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Drive mode<o😛></o😛>
Set it to 2 seconds, so the camera doesn’t shake while taking the shot.<o😛></o😛>
It also gives me time to adjust a towel around the set (so I don’t get reflections of the background, as in my first pictures).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
ISO: minimum possible given the light (50/100 in my case).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Focus: spot mode (pointing to a brushed steel part usually gets the exposure right, as the camera “sees” grey, if you're pointing to a dark part you'll have to underexpose and vice-versa).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Size & resolution<o😛></o😛>
Use maximum size and resolution so you can crop details or get rid of part of the image if you want to.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Lighting<o😛></o😛>
The more the merrier Using some kind of light diffuser (a plastic bucket or something like that) can help a lot. I haven’t done much about that yet.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
For hip wrist shots I normally set the camera to "motion mode", under natural light (auto type of light mode), and there goes!<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Presently I’m trying natural light and my latest shots are with no tripod, choosing the narrower aperture that ensures a reasonable speed for a wrist shot.<o😛></o😛>

 

[Antoni]

Yo he escrito unas ideas sencillas en ingles respecto a tirar fotos de relojes.
Aqui te las pongo.

This is what I do with my Canon PowerShot A75 (3.2 MP camera) set on a tripod.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Set to macro mode and no flash.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Position the piece in order to avoid reflections.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Mode selection: aperture priority.<o😛></o😛>
Set it to the minimum aperture possible (maximum F value, F8.0 in my camera case). This way you’ll get the maximum depth of field (wider focused area). That’s a trade-off, because the narrower the aperture the lesser the light.<o😛></o😛>
If the light is weak the time may appear in red, in that case I increase the aperture (decrease F value) until I get the time setting within limits.
The depth of field can also be used to focus or not the background.
<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Exposure<o😛></o😛>
If the LCD test looks darker I increase exposure (still trying to adjust that) or decrease it if looks too bright.<o😛></o😛>
These settings can always be improved with a photo editing software like PhotoShop or Paint.NET (layers/adjustments/levels).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Type of light<o😛></o😛>
Select the type of light that gives better colour restitution.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Drive mode<o😛></o😛>
Set it to 2 seconds, so the camera doesn’t shake while taking the shot.<o😛></o😛>
It also gives me time to adjust a towel around the set (so I don’t get reflections of the background, as in my first pictures).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
ISO: minimum possible given the light (50/100 in my case).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Focus: spot mode (pointing to a brushed steel part usually gets the exposure right, as the camera “sees” grey, if you're pointing to a dark part you'll have to underexpose and vice-versa).<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Size & resolution<o😛></o😛>
Use maximum size and resolution so you can crop details or get rid of part of the image if you want to.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Lighting<o😛></o😛>
The more the merrier Using some kind of light diffuser (a plastic bucket or something like that) can help a lot. I haven’t done much about that yet.<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
For hip wrist shots I normally set the camera to "motion mode", under natural light (auto type of light mode), and there goes!<o😛></o😛>
<o😛> </o😛>
Presently I’m trying natural light and my latest shots are with no tripod, choosing the narrower aperture that ensures a reasonable speed for a wrist shot.<o😛></o😛>

Y esto en en castellano seria posible.... Seria de agradecer para los torpes en idiomas como es mi caso...