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60 WatchTime October 2005
The bracelet system is another of the Aquatimer’s
highlights. Each individual link has an inset
push-piece on its underside. Pressing this
push-piece reveals a pin, which can then readily
be slid sideways so that the wearer can easily
shorten the bracelet. The same system is used
to affix the ends of the bracelet to the case, so
removing the steel band and inserting a rubber
strap, sold separately, is child’s play. The folding
clasp on the steel bracelet is praiseworthy, too.
This sturdy closure snaps securely shut and stays
that way until it’s released by pressing a hidden
TEST RESULTS
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER
Band and clasp (max. 10 points): 8
Beautiful, sturdy bracelet with good extension;
the styling of the clasp doesn’t meet the high
standards upheld by the rest of the watch.
Operation (5): 4
The screw-in crown fits well between the fingers;
the bezel on our tested watch rotated rather stiffly.
Case (10): 9
Tried-and-true technology with flank protectors
for the crown; rotating bezel; contemporary craftsmanship
with satin-finished and polished surfaces.
Design (15): 15
Though 50 years of progress have made this
wristwatch a mature classic, the Sea-Dweller still
looks young and fresh.
Legibility (5): 5
The hour hand and minute hand are so
distinctively shaped that they cannot possibly
be mistaken for one another; the luminous
indices are clear and distinct.
Wearing comfort (10): 9
The somewhat sharp-edged case doesn’t feel at
all sharp on the wrist.
Movement (20): 16
The utmost functionality rather than a lot of
pretty decorations. This movement runs and
runs and runs….
Rate results (10): 9
Very good on the wrist, but not quite perfect on
the timing machine.
Overall rating (15): 14
Good price and excellent resale value, which
can sometimes exceed the purchase price.
TOTAL: 89 points ★★★★
TEST RESULTS
IWC AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC
Band and clasp (max. 10 points): 9
Ingenious bracelet system with readily removable
and replaceable links; clasp with concealed
release buttons; no extension for wearing over
the sleeve of a wetsuit.
Operation (5): 5
Large, smoothly operating crown. The inner
rotating bezel clicks cleanly and securely into
each increment.
Case (10): 9
The finest in fine mechanical engineering;
beautifully inset crystal; bezel is adjusted via a
designated crown.
Design (15): 14
Uncompromisingly modern, sporty and elegant.
Legibility (5): 5
Unsurpassed legibility; large dial and obvious
contrast between dial and hands; but it would
be nice if the indices were a bit more luminous
at night.
Wearing comfort (10): 9
Once you’ve grown accustomed to its weight,
you’re likely to forget that you’re wearing a
wristwatch.
Movement (20): 14
Robust, reliable, ETA large-series caliber, refined
to conform to IWC’s standards.
Rate results (10) 9
Good results on the timing machine, but the
watch ran obviously “fast” on the wrist.
Overall rating (15): 12
The Aquatimer has many impressive details
that affect the price.
TOTAL: 86 points ★★★★
push-piece. The entire system embodies a beautiful
engineering achievement and radiates an
aura of solidity and reliability. The only shortcoming:
the system lacks an extension for wearing
the watch over a wetsuit sleeve.
An ETA 2892 is the power source for this
submarine. IWC assembles the caliber in accordance
with the company’s own high standards.
For example, technicians measure the barrel’s
torque. Refinements of this sort prompted IWC
to give the caliber a new name, or rather number:
30110. This nomenclature, however,
makes it more difficult for a purchaser to know
whether he’s getting a manufacture-made IWC
movement or a reworked ETA caliber.
A small surprise occurred when we tested
the Aquatimer on the timing machine at Andreas
Huber Jewelers in Munich. The challenger
from IWC performed better than Rolex’s candidate!
The Aquatimer’s greatest deviation of rate
among the several positions was just four seconds.
The corresponding value for the Rolex
was one second greater. Furthermore, the
Aquatimer’s balance had a stronger amplitude
than the Rolex balance. But the tables were
turned on the wrist, where IWC’s watch ran six
seconds “fast” per day, whereas the Sea-
Dweller gained just one second per 24 hours.
Stupendous accuracy of this sort is exactly what
one expects from Rolex, and this extraordinarily
high degree of precision has contributed to the
mystique that surrounds this brand.
The Aquatimer is a very attractive and
sporty watch. Its understated design looks particularly
elegant in the steel version. The
watch’s strengths are its styling and its technically
outstanding bracelet. But if you’re looking
for a truly perfect divers’ watch, we’d suggest
the Aquatimer 2000 with titanium case
and rubber strap. This watch provides better
nighttime and underwater legibility because it
has more luminous material on its indices. Furthermore,
its pronged buckle lets you strap it
on over a neoprene diving suit.
Pinstriped suit or wetsuit? The question
doesn’t even arise for the Sea-Dweller, because
this watch looks equally appropriate with both
outfits. Rolex’s mastery of fine mechanical engineering
ensures that the Sea-Dweller’s inner
life is as every bit as good as its outer appearance.
The only shortcoming is the folding clasp,
which doesn’t quite fit the image of a perfectly
dressed gentleman. Classicism or modernism?
The answer is ultimately a matter of taste. Rolex
succeeds somewhat better at uniting functionality
and attractive design. But it’s the manufacture
movement that puts the Sea-Dweller
ahead of the Aquatimer and wins it the divers’
medal. IWC is gradually catching up in this category,
so we’re eagerly awaiting the debut of
an Aquatimer with a manufacture movement.
When that watch appears, the cards will have
to be reshuffled and another hand of underwater
poker will begin. ■
The bracelet system is another of the Aquatimer’s
highlights. Each individual link has an inset
push-piece on its underside. Pressing this
push-piece reveals a pin, which can then readily
be slid sideways so that the wearer can easily
shorten the bracelet. The same system is used
to affix the ends of the bracelet to the case, so
removing the steel band and inserting a rubber
strap, sold separately, is child’s play. The folding
clasp on the steel bracelet is praiseworthy, too.
This sturdy closure snaps securely shut and stays
that way until it’s released by pressing a hidden
TEST RESULTS
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER
Band and clasp (max. 10 points): 8
Beautiful, sturdy bracelet with good extension;
the styling of the clasp doesn’t meet the high
standards upheld by the rest of the watch.
Operation (5): 4
The screw-in crown fits well between the fingers;
the bezel on our tested watch rotated rather stiffly.
Case (10): 9
Tried-and-true technology with flank protectors
for the crown; rotating bezel; contemporary craftsmanship
with satin-finished and polished surfaces.
Design (15): 15
Though 50 years of progress have made this
wristwatch a mature classic, the Sea-Dweller still
looks young and fresh.
Legibility (5): 5
The hour hand and minute hand are so
distinctively shaped that they cannot possibly
be mistaken for one another; the luminous
indices are clear and distinct.
Wearing comfort (10): 9
The somewhat sharp-edged case doesn’t feel at
all sharp on the wrist.
Movement (20): 16
The utmost functionality rather than a lot of
pretty decorations. This movement runs and
runs and runs….
Rate results (10): 9
Very good on the wrist, but not quite perfect on
the timing machine.
Overall rating (15): 14
Good price and excellent resale value, which
can sometimes exceed the purchase price.
TOTAL: 89 points ★★★★
TEST RESULTS
IWC AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC
Band and clasp (max. 10 points): 9
Ingenious bracelet system with readily removable
and replaceable links; clasp with concealed
release buttons; no extension for wearing over
the sleeve of a wetsuit.
Operation (5): 5
Large, smoothly operating crown. The inner
rotating bezel clicks cleanly and securely into
each increment.
Case (10): 9
The finest in fine mechanical engineering;
beautifully inset crystal; bezel is adjusted via a
designated crown.
Design (15): 14
Uncompromisingly modern, sporty and elegant.
Legibility (5): 5
Unsurpassed legibility; large dial and obvious
contrast between dial and hands; but it would
be nice if the indices were a bit more luminous
at night.
Wearing comfort (10): 9
Once you’ve grown accustomed to its weight,
you’re likely to forget that you’re wearing a
wristwatch.
Movement (20): 14
Robust, reliable, ETA large-series caliber, refined
to conform to IWC’s standards.
Rate results (10) 9
Good results on the timing machine, but the
watch ran obviously “fast” on the wrist.
Overall rating (15): 12
The Aquatimer has many impressive details
that affect the price.
TOTAL: 86 points ★★★★
push-piece. The entire system embodies a beautiful
engineering achievement and radiates an
aura of solidity and reliability. The only shortcoming:
the system lacks an extension for wearing
the watch over a wetsuit sleeve.
An ETA 2892 is the power source for this
submarine. IWC assembles the caliber in accordance
with the company’s own high standards.
For example, technicians measure the barrel’s
torque. Refinements of this sort prompted IWC
to give the caliber a new name, or rather number:
30110. This nomenclature, however,
makes it more difficult for a purchaser to know
whether he’s getting a manufacture-made IWC
movement or a reworked ETA caliber.
A small surprise occurred when we tested
the Aquatimer on the timing machine at Andreas
Huber Jewelers in Munich. The challenger
from IWC performed better than Rolex’s candidate!
The Aquatimer’s greatest deviation of rate
among the several positions was just four seconds.
The corresponding value for the Rolex
was one second greater. Furthermore, the
Aquatimer’s balance had a stronger amplitude
than the Rolex balance. But the tables were
turned on the wrist, where IWC’s watch ran six
seconds “fast” per day, whereas the Sea-
Dweller gained just one second per 24 hours.
Stupendous accuracy of this sort is exactly what
one expects from Rolex, and this extraordinarily
high degree of precision has contributed to the
mystique that surrounds this brand.
The Aquatimer is a very attractive and
sporty watch. Its understated design looks particularly
elegant in the steel version. The
watch’s strengths are its styling and its technically
outstanding bracelet. But if you’re looking
for a truly perfect divers’ watch, we’d suggest
the Aquatimer 2000 with titanium case
and rubber strap. This watch provides better
nighttime and underwater legibility because it
has more luminous material on its indices. Furthermore,
its pronged buckle lets you strap it
on over a neoprene diving suit.
Pinstriped suit or wetsuit? The question
doesn’t even arise for the Sea-Dweller, because
this watch looks equally appropriate with both
outfits. Rolex’s mastery of fine mechanical engineering
ensures that the Sea-Dweller’s inner
life is as every bit as good as its outer appearance.
The only shortcoming is the folding clasp,
which doesn’t quite fit the image of a perfectly
dressed gentleman. Classicism or modernism?
The answer is ultimately a matter of taste. Rolex
succeeds somewhat better at uniting functionality
and attractive design. But it’s the manufacture
movement that puts the Sea-Dweller
ahead of the Aquatimer and wins it the divers’
medal. IWC is gradually catching up in this category,
so we’re eagerly awaiting the debut of
an Aquatimer with a manufacture movement.
When that watch appears, the cards will have
to be reshuffled and another hand of underwater
poker will begin. ■
