G
galis
Visitante
A continuación pongo unos extractos de la entrevista q otro forista ha puesto en el foro a Frank Muller.
In-house movements
What do you think of the use of the term “in-house movement” today?
I think the whole obsession with in-house movements is completely a marketing tactic and largely ridiculous. When the Swiss watch industry started all movements were in-house in that they were created by farmers who needed something to do during the winter months. They fabricated these movements in-house. After this they came down from the mountains and they sold these movements to brands like Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. These brands would take these movements case them up and put a dial on them with their brand name on it. So even at this period you were getting in-house movements in their watches but the house they were made in was not Patek Philippe of Vacheron Constantin. In fact Patek Philippe never made their own movements before 1933, and this is something they have openly expressed in their own history. But these brands would create the perception that every thing was done by them.
Can you elaborate on how they create the perception of being in-house?
It is something of a paradox and it is for this reason I said that you have to pay attention to the dreams expressed by high Swiss watchmaking. Patek Philippe for example would have you believe that they are a predominately mechanical brand but they are one of the largest producers of quartz movements (for their ladies watches) in Switzerland. Further this isn’t even an in-house quartz movement they buy it from the Swatch Group and modify it.
Another marketing tactic is to make you believe that an in-house manufactured watch is somehow better than the one that uses out sourced parts. But how can a manufacture perfect every single one of the crafts needed to create a watch because there are well over 100 of these. Are they saying they can do each of these crafts better than everyone else? The watch industry was one that from the beginning outsourced parts such as screws, wheels and other components from specialty suppliers.
PANERAI
What do you think of brands that had no tradition in in-house movements now joining the in-house bandwagon such as Panerai?
The problem with Panerai wanting to assert itself as an in-house manufacture and also a haute de gamme manufacture is that it is impossible to elevate your brand beyond its natural limitations. Panerai was not created to be a high watchmaking brand so even if they introduced a tourbillon or an in-house movement they will not be able to move up to the ranks of haute horology. You can certainly move down, but the shift in positioning upwards just doesn’t happen. The DNA of the brand is based on its status as a pragmatic heroic watch and it just doesn’t work as a high watchmaking, technical brand.
How would you explain then that Panerai does manage to sell its high complications?
Well it’s simple. Panerai fans are very loyal and within this group there are unquestionably several who are willing to purchase a very expensive watch like a Panerai tourbillon. But just because there are several willing to buy this watch doesn’t mean Panerai has successfully climbed the ladder doesn’t mean they can communicate the high end dream that makes you believe they have the legitimacy to create high complications.
ROLEX
Are there brands that make high end products but have successfully gone mass?
A good example is Rolex. Now, a Rolex watch has enormous value relative to its price. It is really excellent value. It is the accessibility of its price that allows Rolex to sell 1 million watches a year. But have you ever looked at a Rolex movement? These are incredibly high end movements. They are high end in the manner they are made, in the way they are decorated in the way that they are designed, and they are in-house. I look at Rolex objectively I would say they are incredible because you have tremendous value. The same thing goes for an Omega Constellation chronograph. You look at the price and then you realize for this relatively low price you are getting a high end movement.
Sin comentarios......... Y no es q esto lo diga un espioja pavas!!!!
In-house movements
What do you think of the use of the term “in-house movement” today?
I think the whole obsession with in-house movements is completely a marketing tactic and largely ridiculous. When the Swiss watch industry started all movements were in-house in that they were created by farmers who needed something to do during the winter months. They fabricated these movements in-house. After this they came down from the mountains and they sold these movements to brands like Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. These brands would take these movements case them up and put a dial on them with their brand name on it. So even at this period you were getting in-house movements in their watches but the house they were made in was not Patek Philippe of Vacheron Constantin. In fact Patek Philippe never made their own movements before 1933, and this is something they have openly expressed in their own history. But these brands would create the perception that every thing was done by them.
Can you elaborate on how they create the perception of being in-house?
It is something of a paradox and it is for this reason I said that you have to pay attention to the dreams expressed by high Swiss watchmaking. Patek Philippe for example would have you believe that they are a predominately mechanical brand but they are one of the largest producers of quartz movements (for their ladies watches) in Switzerland. Further this isn’t even an in-house quartz movement they buy it from the Swatch Group and modify it.
Another marketing tactic is to make you believe that an in-house manufactured watch is somehow better than the one that uses out sourced parts. But how can a manufacture perfect every single one of the crafts needed to create a watch because there are well over 100 of these. Are they saying they can do each of these crafts better than everyone else? The watch industry was one that from the beginning outsourced parts such as screws, wheels and other components from specialty suppliers.
PANERAI
What do you think of brands that had no tradition in in-house movements now joining the in-house bandwagon such as Panerai?
The problem with Panerai wanting to assert itself as an in-house manufacture and also a haute de gamme manufacture is that it is impossible to elevate your brand beyond its natural limitations. Panerai was not created to be a high watchmaking brand so even if they introduced a tourbillon or an in-house movement they will not be able to move up to the ranks of haute horology. You can certainly move down, but the shift in positioning upwards just doesn’t happen. The DNA of the brand is based on its status as a pragmatic heroic watch and it just doesn’t work as a high watchmaking, technical brand.
How would you explain then that Panerai does manage to sell its high complications?
Well it’s simple. Panerai fans are very loyal and within this group there are unquestionably several who are willing to purchase a very expensive watch like a Panerai tourbillon. But just because there are several willing to buy this watch doesn’t mean Panerai has successfully climbed the ladder doesn’t mean they can communicate the high end dream that makes you believe they have the legitimacy to create high complications.
ROLEX
Are there brands that make high end products but have successfully gone mass?
A good example is Rolex. Now, a Rolex watch has enormous value relative to its price. It is really excellent value. It is the accessibility of its price that allows Rolex to sell 1 million watches a year. But have you ever looked at a Rolex movement? These are incredibly high end movements. They are high end in the manner they are made, in the way they are decorated in the way that they are designed, and they are in-house. I look at Rolex objectively I would say they are incredible because you have tremendous value. The same thing goes for an Omega Constellation chronograph. You look at the price and then you realize for this relatively low price you are getting a high end movement.
Sin comentarios......... Y no es q esto lo diga un espioja pavas!!!!
